Heh. Just looked at your link. You're new to this. 
Here's the two pictures I saw in your link.
This one is the heat tubes for the choke. There is a exhaust cross over in the intake manifold that helps warm up. Hot air from the crossover is brought to the choke's bimetal coil so it opens quicker.
On the back of the choke assembly is a vacuum operated pull-off. The hose to it should be manifold vacuum. As soon as the engine fires up, the manifold vacuum pulls on the diagphram and that opens the choke to the running position.
choke_tubeKuAxyO1.jpg
Here on the front of your 2150, the bottom nipple is the power valve housing. That should be connected to a manifold vacuum source in an intake runner. When the engine is running, the vacuum holds the power valve closed, except under full load (wide open throttle). At full load, the fuel mixture needs to be richer than part throttle. So this is an enrichment valve. If its open or leaking under other conditions, the engine will be running rich all the time, which is bad for cylinder walls and spark plugs.
2150-front-1Gjn0Jc.jpg
The top hose is for the carburetor's fuel bowls to vent when the engine is shut off - hence the electric valve in that line. Engine running, the bowls vent inside the aircleaner.
Another thing is my egr doesnt work
Are sure? This is hard to test. EGR is only used under normal running conditions. Later EGR valves are very hard to test..
.. I have to unplug a vacuum line coming from the metalic egr and going into some big round plastic thing which actually has tons of vacuum lines all routed into the air hat and stuff. I have to plug that line otherwise if i keep it connected to the egr it stalls the engine.
See - here that makes me think the EGR valve itself is working. It just may be working when it shouldn't. The thing with many lines in it is a multi-use coolant temperature actuated switch.
Another thing is my air pump works.. but one of my manifolds the air injection tubes are gone and welded.. broke off from rust i imagine. The other is there.. Can i just remove this air pump block the tube on the cat ( i have a magnaflow cat brand new) and either pinch the tubes on the last manifold or weld them shut as well ?
All depends on what you want to do. Airtubes are easy to buy. Removing the hollow banjo bolts can be a pain. I've had the easiest time removing them with an impact wrench with the exhaust manifolds off of the engine. Anyway..
The airpump arrangements changed over the years. I'm going to assume yours has (or had) a vacuum actuated diverter valve after the pump. IIRC, Engine cold - air is injected into the exhaust manifolds. Coolant temperature warmed up, air is injected into the cat. There should be check valves on each of the injection tube assemblies. I wouldn't blame you if you wanted to ditch the manifold injection...
I dont see much point in having an EGR and Air pump if my EGR doesnt work and only 1 manifold has the injection tubs. Am i right ?
They don't directly relate. Injection helps the 2way and 3 way cats. EGR, when working, will work best with the stock engine and timing. IF you ditch the EGR, at minimum you'll want to cut back on light and moderate throttle timing. If done right, its probably a wash in terms of fuel milage.
well i fixed two vacuum lines. the two that were disconnected the one on the carb goes to the bacl of the carb on the intake on some hex nut with two openeings.
The hex nut with two nips is a manifold vacuum source. One probably controls the air cleaner vacuum motors via some temperature switches in the aircleaner housing.
The other with a screw on a cto with 5 ends is where the purge valve actually goes.
?
Can i eliminate the HDC CTO ?? I heard i can and just keep the Spark CTO. Should free up 3 more vacuum lines. I found some guide saying i can remove the HDC CTO and plug it with a pipe plug. or just plug the 3 ends. But the routjng for the spark cto i need a R.DELAY in the line. Even the original vacuum line on the spaek has an RDELAY going to the non linear valve but i have no rdelay but i have no linear valve..
I'd say since you're not familair with the operations and effects, if you want to simplify, follow a factory arrangement from the late 70s when catalytic converters were first installed for all US sales.
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Source: https://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13539
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